Angkor Essentials - Back to Angkor Wat ....

We started the day at Angkor Wat to watch the sun rise and after lunch, we headed back to Angkor Wat. I was looking through my photographs and there's just heaps that I am going to share here because I think pictures speak a thousand words and would do a better job of describing what we saw.

Angkor Wat looked different in the afternoon and before the trip, researched online from people who have been there advised that the best time for photographing Angkor Wat was in the afternoon. But got to warn you though the the heat and humidity can be real bad. A non hat person like me succumbed and bought a hat and wore it during the visit to Angkor Wat. Most of the areas are covered walkways or inside the temple. And there were areas that were surprisingly windy. But those sections where we had to walk outdoors .... HOT!! *grins*

When we entered Angkor Wat through one of the entrances, Mr Chenla brought us to see the carving of this devata, or female deity. We were asking him what was so different about this devata to the ones we saw before. He explained that this devata was smiling. And we pointed out that others were smiling too. Then he explained specifically that this devata was smiling because her teeth were showing. Ahhhh, it all became clearer to us! *grins*

What was amazing about the devata (above) was the details on her, from her hairdo to her jewellery. Below refers to the many windows around the temple and it has to have seven columns though many were incomplete. As to seven, I cannot seem to remember why it has to be seven ... hmmm ... could it be because of the 'seven heavens' of the Hindu deities?

A rare moment below when the section we were at was totally peaceful *laughs* It's really rare. There were moments where Mag and I sat it out to just let people move ahead so that we didn't have to bear with their loud chattering.

During that trip to Siem Reap, I discovered the widescreen mode on my camera. Yes, I am useless when it comes to exploring. When I stumbled upon this mode, I was thrilled cuz I loved how the shots turned out. Like the one below. LOVE IT *laughs* Anyways, back to the carvings, they are not as clear as the ones in Bayon, but they are nonetheless pretty cool.

Carvings that showed of battles that took place (below). If you're wondering why there are portions of the carvings that are shiny. Well those are where visitors to the temple have left their mark by touching the carvings. Each time one person touch the carving, s/he leaves behind oils that actually do more harm than good for these carvings. So am appealing to travellers who are heading to Angkor Wat, go ahead take home photographs, just don't leave behind your finger marks on those walls.

Below is a close up of the army on the march to battle, probably against the Siamese soldiers.

A full shot of the soldiers, to the right - the Siamese soldiers and to the left, Khmer soldiers. Can you spot how they are different?

What was odd about the temple was how the ground was uneven and the authorities had put wooden steps for visitors to the temple. But I am curious as to why it was built that way ...

The two carvings below are from the third gallery of the south side east wing depicting the beatings and torture in the Judgement of the Dead.

Check out below the Guardians of the Underworld in action in the Judgement of the Dead.

What caught my attention below are those cool fan-looking things that the guys are carrying. Think those guys could be in a procession of sort.

Along the corridors we spot statues of Buddha (see below) and Mr Chenla explained that those were added in during the religious revolution during Jayavarman VII's reign in 13th century when the Khmer empire embraced Buddhism, leading to Angkor Wat to be converted from a Vishnuite sanctuary to a Buddhist monastry.

Female deities in a row below. Check out their hair-dos *grins* Pretty cool huh? Also check out the details on the devata.

We got to the central part of the temple and below you can see how steep the steps are. These have been closed since 2004 because of some accidents that took place. Wooden steps have been built that will allow visitors up. Unfortunately, it was ready when we were there.

We spent quite a lot of time here to just sit back and take the whole experience in. We found a nice shady spot (just below the windows below) and that was really really nice. It was quieter with few people at that section of the temple. Those are the moments that I really remember instead of the rush rush bits *grins*

Mag, just had to put this photograph of you here because I think you look great and I also love the contrast from your red top with the background. Reminder to self to not wear black if I am going to head to such places *grins*

Thanks to Mr Chenla who was always ready to take shots for us. He was a good sport and super patient. Hmmm, darn, I don't think I have a picture with Mr Chenla *thinks*

Below is a shot taken from the base of the steps to give you an idea of how darn steep the steps were. I have no idea how the Khmers in the past climbed those steps with the sedan (with the King seated inside). It's suppose to be steep to reflect the mountain that reaches the heaven (at least that's what I remember from Mr Chenla) but how practical can that be ya.

After easily about 20 minutes, we moved on to the first level which seemed like the central area that led to different parts of the temple.

There were monks who were also there and I think the contrast between their saffron robes against the background ... just awesome. Unfortunately, wasn't able to get any good shot of the temple and monk combi then.

Mag went on to climb this separate section while I stayed at the other end.

And from Mag's end, she took managed to get a shot of me waiting under the shade *laughs*

Found the columns interesting. Am not sure if they were formerly windows that have been sealed or were the columns purely decorative.

More devata with four different hairdos Also take note of the jewellery on them. Very cool. And guess which parts of the devata that people just had to grope? *laughs* Hint: Look out for them shiny spots!

After spending several hours, we were ready to leave as we had to make our way for the next and last temple for our stay in Siem Reap. While walking out, we had to take a separate and rather longer route to the exit (separate from the route taken by the locals)). I think they have separate routes for tourists to enter and exit because it can be rather crazy during peak season.

As we walked away, I saw this boy just sitting outside the temple, totally oblivious to the crowd of tourists around him. Wonder what he's thinking ....

We started the day watching the sun rising and we ended the day watching the sun set. Our next destination was Phnom Bakheng temple.

Phnom Bakheng, the 'Strong Hill', is a natural rise more than 70m high on which was built the temple mountain of the same name. That was the centre of Yashodharapura, the 'City that Bestows Glory', which was the new capital of Yashovarman I, who was crowned in 889. This has to be one of the earlier temples built. Photograph below shows the trail that we took to get to the base of the temple. It took us about 15 minutes up slope climb on the trail and yes, it was dead tiring for me *grins*

You can choose to go up the trail by elephants if you don't want to climb up, but be prepared to fork out USD20 for one trip up and another USD15 for a trip down. The photograph below shows base of the temple and the five terraces of the pyramid.

I hate heights and have this fear of stairs/steps because I just have this image of falling down steps and breaking my face *grins* Sign that I am getting older! But if you just go to the base of the Phnom Bakheng, you can see very much. So up I went with Mag and it was definitely worth it (see below for the view from the top). If like me, you hate heights, just make sure when you climb, get a good grip of the side of the stairway and don't look down. The steps are very narrow so climb one step at a time. No need to be a hero ya *grins*

We were on our own at the temple so we just spent time walking around and managed to finish taking all the shots in 15 minutes. And it was about 4 plus in the afternoon and sun was not due to set till 5.30pm.

Above is a corner prasat found around the temple. Below is probably another which has broken over time. But if you look close enough, you can see the devata.

More corner prasat against the sky background. That was close to the area where we sat for over an hour for the sun to set. Thankfully Mag had her ipod with her so we could plug in and chill out. There will be heaps of people around so 'chope' your spot so that you get a nice view of the sun setting. My regret was not having a chilled can of Coke up there with me because that would have been a great treat to end the day! *grins*

Unfortunately, the sky was too cloudly so we didn't have a great sunset, but it was still a sunset. And it was a nice way to end the day of temple hopping.

We decided to move off before it got too dark (take note that the trail closes at 5.30pm so they won't let you start the trail after 5.30pm) and also partly to beat the crowd. And we decided to take a different route down and here's a shot of how bad (and dangerous) it can be. I swear it's an accident waiting to happen. Somehow, people self-organised and separated those going up and down the temple. Going up is alot easier compared to going down. Very unglamorous but I basically got down to my butt and slid down step by step and cling on to the side for support. At some point, there were missing steps so just slide down. Anyways, everyone is too busy to even care how you look *laughs* Also look around and see how others are doing it and pick up some ideas from there too. What was amazing was how the locals were climbing up and down in heels and baby resting on their hips *shakes head*

Commented to Mag that we didn't have any photographs of the food we ate. And there's a very simple reason for that. Each time we sat down for a meal, we would be so hungry that when the food came, we just started eating *laughs* Two Khmer dishes that I like - Amok Fish and Beef with Khmer spices (no idea what's the local name for this dish). Khmer food is not spicy so it's great if you aren't keen on spicy food. But for us, we needed to have that kick. That was easily solved by asking for some cut chilli (we got chilli padi *grins*) and mix it with the dish and it was PERFECT!

One of the places we ate had Amok fish served in a coconut shell (see above) and they actually cut the cover in the shape of a heart. Cute or what ya!!!

Angkor Essentials - Raiding the tombs ....

If you're wondering if I'm on to day three of our Siem Reap trip after the last post ... errrhh...actually I just finished the early part of the morning *grins* Don't forget we had an early start so there is still more of day two to come so brace yourself k!

The next temple that we visited Ta Prohm is now famous thanks to Angelina Jolene and her movie Lara Croft - Tomb Raider that was filmed there. And our Mr Chenla was the translator for the producers (or somebody involved in the filming) and he was proud to show us the spots where the camera crew did the screening. and I will share those spots with you too. Will have to rewatch the movie to confirm the spots though *grins*

Ta Prohm is also known as the temple of Brahma the Ancestor. It was consecrated in 1186 by Jayavarman VII, who dedicated it to his mother, deified as Prajnaparamita, the mother of all the Buddhas and Mistress of the 'Perfection of Knowledge'.

To get to the temple, we had to walk about 350m along a path in the forest. What caught my attention was how the roots of the trees were strangling the temple. According to Mr Chenla, the first site where the camera crew had up their equipments was to get the view you see below (information to be confirmed after I have rewatched the movie!)

And there were also designated 'hot spots' (one example is below where you see the root system very clearly) where platforms built for tourists to take shots home. We were told that the boardwalk and clearing was a recent thing. The original state of the temple was such that 'explorers' had to climb over huge blocks of broken bits of the temple. Nowadays, it's much easier for us to explore the temple and I guess it takes a way part of the excitement of exploring an abandoned temple :o)

The photograph below shows the Kapok Tree invading the gallery porticoes. Pretty amazing and it must have taken a long time for the roots to grow to that extent. Don't know about you but looking at the photograph below gives me goosebumps.

There are still lots of areas that are hard to go through because of broken blocks of stones (as seen below). Am not sure if you can see from the photograph (to the right of the photo), there were holes in the walls and these was where they used to store things. Now, as tempting as it is, DO NOT PUT YOUR FINGERS INTO THE HOLES which was what we nearly did to see how deep they were. Reason being, there might be creepy crawlies like scorpions lurking in the holes!

Another 'hot spot' (photograph below - which by the way gives me goosebumps when I look at the photograph each time *shivers* dunno why) for tourists and you really need to push your way and insist that it's your turn to take a shot. But you will get people who insist on standing in front of you to take a shot. So irritating. And I can just imagine how worse it will be during the peak period. A lady had to beg us to let her take this shot without anyone and we relented and I took the opportunity to grab a shot too *grins*

Once the lady got her shot, we quickly jumped into position before anyone behind us could 'cut queue' *laughs* Ohhh, being tourists can be oh so tiring!!!

I reckon Ta Prohm would be absolutely perfect if we had the place to ourselves, or at least fewer people there so that we could really take in everything. It was difficult when hordes of people are around and they get SO LOUD *sighs* many a times we felt like screaming SHHHHHH!!

This (photograph below) is the second location according to Mr Chenla. He showed us exactly where the cameras were set up *grins* and this was the shot they took. For the filming, they actually closed the temple to the public. Hmmm, not very nice thing to do especially if you don't have time to return (like us!)

Me (photograph below) taking a break from all the walking and the people. The path to take was pretty much fixed so you gotta move with the flow and that irked me because it meant moving at the rush rush pace as everyone else. It's like click click click (photo-taking) and then move, then click click click and then move on. So any opportunity to take a break and just slow things down was a good thing.

Eventually we had to move along and join the crowd. Just gotta shut out the noise and admire the temple around ....

There was a carver there who was working on a piece of horn and for this piece, he was actually carving the Angkor Wat on that piece of flat horn. Can't see from the photograph but the carving looked real good. But it was work in progress so no chance of buying it home *grins*

I don't know if you can tell but I was kinda pissed off because an Asian lady (I will not mention from which country) just stood in front of me to have her photograph taken. Yeah, lots of rambling and ranting for this post but I still can recall how irritating it can be when in a crowd.

Alrighty, time for a break. We headed for lunch break close by to Angkor Wat, which was our next stop. Will blog about what we tried and liked in Cambodia in terms of their food a little later.